Long Shadows Vintners’ Director of Winemaking and Viticulture Celebrates 30 Years of Winemaking
In the world of winemaking, inspiration often comes from family, tradition, and a deep connection to the land. For the past 30 years, Gilles Nicault, Long Shadows’ Director of Viticulture and Winemaking, has embraced these tenets. His journey into the world of wine began in the picturesque regions of southern France and continues to this day in the Walla Walla Valley, crafting exceptional wines and passing his knowledge to the next generation of winemakers.
Gilles's journey into winemaking was deeply influenced by his parents, who were involved in the sales and marketing side of the wine industry. Growing up in Avignon, near the renowned Chateauneuf du Pape wine region in Provence, Gilles was exposed to the world of wine from a young age. His family vacations often included visits to wineries, sparking his interest in the gastronomy of wine. At just 17, Gilles decided to pursue a career in winemaking, enrolling in a four-year degree program for viticulture and winemaking at the Université d’Avignon.
During his studies, Gilles gained hands-on experience through internships in regions like Luberon, Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence, and Champagne. His desire to explore beyond France led him to an internship opportunity in Yakima, Washington, in 1994. Initially unfamiliar with Washington State's wine industry, Gilles embraced the challenge, marking the beginning of his Washington winemaking career.
PHOTOS: Left (President Dane Narbaitz, Founder Allen Shoup, Gilles Nicault) | Middle (Gilles Nicault) | Right (Gilles Nicault, Michel Rolland, Allen Shoup, John Duval, Philippe Melka, Randy Dunn)
Over the past three decades, Gilles has witnessed significant changes in the Washington wine industry. When he first arrived, there were only 75 wineries. Today, the number has surged to over 1,000. Despite this rapid growth, Gilles notes that the quality of Washington wines has remained exceptional. Gilles credits pioneers like Allen Shoup for bringing international expertise and innovative techniques to the region, elevating Washington State's wines to global recognition.
Reflecting on his career, Gilles highlights the influence of two mentors: Rick Small of Woodward Canyon and Allen Shoup. Shoup, in particular, played a pivotal role in Gilles's journey by entrusting him with the production at Long Shadows Vintners. Working with renowned vintners like Randy Dunn, Michel Rolland, and John Duval was an extraordinary experience, allowing Gilles to learn from the best while developing his own winemaking style.
One of the biggest challenges Gilles faced was communication, particularly in the early years of his career. Overcoming language barriers and ensuring clear communication with his team were crucial to avoid costly mistakes. Gilles emphasizes the importance of surrounding oneself with capable coworkers and maintaining open lines of communication to achieve success in winemaking. In fact, it was Shoup who advised Gilles to hire assistant winemakers who both challenged and complemented him, always striving to learn and grow.
In that vein, Gilles's winemaking philosophy has evolved over the years, embracing new techniques and technologies. From the use of concrete eggs in Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc production to the implementation of electrodialysis for cold-stabilizing white wines, Gilles remains committed to innovation. He believes in continually adapting and improving to stay at the forefront of winemaking.
Among the many wines Gilles has crafted, a few vintages stand out. In 2005, he produced his first botrytis Riesling, the “noble rot,” a serendipitous discovery that led to a beautifully complex wine. The challenging 2020 vintage, marked by smoke and COVID-19, tested Gilles's skills and resilience. Despite the obstacles, he navigated the season successfully, reinforcing his dedication to his craft. The culmination of which was a 98 point score for the Feather Cabernet Sauvignon; a score he is more proud of than the 100 point score for the relatively drama-free 2021 vintage of the same wine.
Gilles's journey from Avignon to the Walla Walla Valley is a testament to passion, perseverance, and the pursuit of excellence in winemaking. As he looks to the future, Gilles remains committed to producing wines that reflect the unique terroir and vibrant character of Washington State.